Oil Cloth/Canvas Haversack

A haversack is a shoulder bag that was made from leather, canvas or oilcloth . It was  used to carry the lunch(bread usually)from workers at the factories. That was the reason that also called bread bag.  Soldiers also used it to carry ammo and provisions too. It was also in use from hunters,trappers and explorers back in the 18th century but it’s still in use today;many outdoor enthusiasts and reenactors still carry them.

My first haversack was a military surplus one.Had a lot of fun with that old one,but it reached the end of his service time last year,so i decided to replace it. I was looking for something more traditional than the nylon made i used to have. I found a great haversack made from oil cloth and canvas at http://www.blueangelical.me.uk/


Haversack and Canteen Pouch
My haversack and canteen pouch


The haversack is 14” long x 12” wide approximately,  and it is made with oil cloth as outer layer and has canvas inside. The top flap has an internal pouch that secures with velcro. The flap is secured with a military grade G-hook. The shoulder strap has a rubber pad and it’s of course adjustable. Overall the haversack is very well made and the quality is more than obvious.I use my haversack for short day trips and for day hunting. In the haversack i carry my essentials and i have another pouch to carry my canteen with its cup.

Canteen Pouch and Haversack Contents

The canteen pouch is made from Cordura Nylon and holds my US Army Canteen with a stainless steel cup.The pouch was gift from a friend couple years ago and is very well made. The haversack holds all the necessary items to cover the basic needs,plus couple tools that i might need to maintain my shotgun while hunting.

For shelter i had chosen a poncho,because i can use it for raincover but also as my main shelter. For that reason i carry few tent stakes and of course cordage.In this case i carry 550 paracord. An emergency type bivvy bag is my sleep system. For tools i carry two screwdrivers,one large and one smaller,in case i need to get access at the buttstock.I also carry a small Silky pocket boy saw and on my belt is my knife,an LTWK GEN5.


I have a small stove and particular the 180 flame,which is very light and i can use it to make a brew or  fast meal with a small fire and less fuel.I also carry couple fuel tablets, one bandana and a titanium spork.The spork with the cup are my utensils. I included a small cloth bag that i can use it to keep herbals or fatwood or whatever i am harvesting. A strip of cotton cloth can be used to clean my shotgun or make char cloth. A first aid kit should always be in every bag or backpack. In this case i have an Adventure Medical Kit.


In a small pouch i keep a small fire kit,which is a BIC lighter,flint and steel and a wick, an Opinel folding knife, a ceramic rod for sharpening my knives,duct tape and a Remington oil wipes to maintain my firearm on the field.


All these items,with a toilet paper roll,fit just right in the haversack,leaving room for food,dehydrated or snacks and for coffee or tea bags.

With this kit i spend almost all day hunting,i usually return late in the afternoon, and i am confident that i have everything i need. It doesn’t weight much and i have covered the 5Cs of Survivability, Cutting tool,Cover,Combustion,Container and Cordage,which are the most important needs in a survival situation and i have items to help me maintain my tools too.



Haversack: https://bluesbushcraftboutique.bigcartel.com/product/oilskin-canvas-haversack

GEN5 knife: https://www.ltwrightknives.com/knives.html

Stove: http://www.180tack.com/180-flame

Flint and Steel: https://www.selfrelianceoutfitters.com/

DIY: Making your own wooden arrows


The last two years i had decided that it was time to step into archery.It was something that i wanted for long time and i am catching myself remembering how many times i had stolen bands from my mother’s sewing kit to make strings for my bow during my childhood.

I had bought my first bow,a Samick Field Lion bow,one piece recurve and with coaching from friends and watching videos to learn proper techniques, so i can established a good form, i started shooting my bow a lot. I really enjoy it every time!!!Now i am shooting my second bow,a Bear Archery Grizzly and i am very excited with it!

Since,i decided to go with the more traditional form of archery,i started to learn how to make my own arrows.Since i am novice,i didn’t went out to find that perfect branch to cut it and shape it to an arrow;instead i got couple pine and cedar arrow shafts so that i can experiment with them.They have different spines and size(5/16 and 11/32) but they are the same length;32 inches. So,first off i apply three coats of  raw linseed oil.That, will give shafts a nice protective coat.Raw linseed oil need some time to dry,but it’s not that hard.Apply one coat each time to a dozen shafts,will take you 5 minutes.Then just let it one day to dry and then repeat.

After the drying process, i cut my arrows at the desired length.My preferred arrow length is 30 inches;and i mean a complete arrow,with tip,nock and fletching.So,depending on the tip or broadhead,i have to adjust the cut accordingly.It might be 2 inches or 2 1/2 inches. I use a taper tool to cut a precise angle (a taper) on a wood arrow for mounting nocks and points. A nock taper measures 5° and a point taper measures 11°. A tapered arrow flies better after all.


Next, i place the broadhead or field tip and then the nock,without glueing any of them;I will do that after the fletching,in case something goes wrong. I measure the length once more to make sure that is the desirable one. Then i place the shaft on the fletching jig glueing the first feather,here is the orange one;let it set for 5 minutes. I turn the jig mechanism to the next place,pick a  black feather and repeat the process.Same goes for the final feather.At the end your arrow should look like this;

You can see that the feathers have equal space between them.After, i let the glue dry for couple minutes,i glue the nock and the tip or broadhead.I let it dry for 24 hours and then our arrows are ready to use.

Making your arrows ,is a great feeling and a great way to spent couple hours.The feeling that you are going to shoot or hunt with something that you had made is priceless.

Now, i hope that you had enjoyed that reading, and for your information,while you were reading, i was shooting arrows in my backyard!

REVIEW: S.O.E GEAR 12 gauge Micro Rig

For many years i was looking and testing and experimenting with gear and ways to help me carry shotgun ammo.Since,shotguns are the only available firearm in my place, i was searching to find the best possible way to carry ammo for my shotgun and other essential gear,not only in case a SHTF scenario, but also while hunting. In previous articles at this blog i had analysed the two very good options in my opinion to carry shells,in this one i will show you the best way to carry shotshells ever;The SOE GEAR 12 gauge Micro Rig!

I knew about S.O.E Gear long time ago,but for many reasons i hadn’t had the chance to managed to purchase one of their products.I have seen the Micro Rig at some pictures and it was intrigued me very much.I thought that this rig could be absolutely the best platform to carry shotgun ammunition.Finally,couple months ago i managed to score a 12 gauge Micro rig.

The rig is made from 1000 D Cordura nylon which is very tough and bomb proof!The webbings meet military standards,so don’t expect any thread to come off after hard use!The rig comes in two versions;one for right handed person and one for left handed.These means that the right handed version will have the ammo carriers at the left side and for the left handed individual the ammo will be carried at the right side.Mine is the right handed version.At the left side there are the shot shells cards and at the right there is a general purpose pouch.

I use this pouch to keep a first aid kit,duct tape and a small notebook.The pouch can also accept a box of 25 shotgun shells.You can put whatever you like there.Outside,there is a Velcro panel to attach patches,as you can also see at the picture above and below.

At the right side of the pouch there is MOLLE/PALS row sewn,so you can attach a small pouch.I have a small pouch ,also made by SOE,attached to keep a folder knife.

The rig can carries 24 rounds of shotgun ammunition.Six shells in each card.When you use the front cards you unhook them, let them drop and just pull and hook the cards from the pouches.You can carry more,if you add a box of 25 shells inside the utility pouch or add couple more cards at the Velcro panel of the utility pouch.

The rig also has a small compartments where you can put miscellaneous small items ,like multitool,compass , map and similar items.

As concerns mobility,the rig is lightweight.The weight distribution hen it’s load shared at the shoulders and the upper body.It doesn’t hurt your back and waste just like the old shotgun ammo belts.The straps are comfortable although are not padded.I haven’t any issue with that.If someone wants padded option, you should check the harness that offered from SOE for that purpose.Also, the chest rig allows you easy movements while you jump in and out of the vehicle.

This micro chest rig is the best product for carrying ammunition for your favorite shotgun.It doesn’t matter if you are hunting or are a law enforcement officer or military personnel,this rig will serve you great!

I am very happy and impressed of this awesome micro rig.It is everything I wanted plus more!SOE gear are an amazing company to deal with;great people are running this business and they have an awesome customer service!


How to make pickled olives for long term storage

The olive tree played and still plays a great role in Mediterranean cuisine and everyday life. The olive tree was very important and many cultures have recognized the value of this tree and gave it a special place in their life. For example the ancient Greeks used to give to every winner of the Olympic Games an olive wreath, taken from a sacred tree. This symbol had more power and meaning than gold or silver medal. The olive tree represented for them, the kindness and nobility and of course the peace.

The olive tree can be found in sub-tropical areas mainly in Mediterranean, but also in South America and in United States of America.

By its nature is a great multipurpose tree. We can use everything that comes from this tree in many ways and for a lot of applications. We can use the fruit, the wood the leaves. It produces great wood for fire; lasts a long time and makes great coals. It gives very good heat. Also the elegant wood is very good for carpentry and knife handles.

The most famous products that this tree makes are the olive oil and the olives of course. The olive oil is probably the best oil someone can use for cooking, making a simple salad or pie to more complicated dishes. The olive oil is the most important part in the Mediterranean diet.

I would like to share with you, a recipe that preserves the olives for eighteen months. It is very simple and it is a great add to your food supplies, either for everyday use or emergency. It’s a project that we do it in my home and it’s pretty common here.

Let’s say that you are going to make 10 kilos (22 lbs) of black olives. As I said before it’s the best for eating. The olives shouldn’t be green but light purple or black, indicates that aren’t unripe or to mature. Also the quantity is enough for a 4 member family; of course you can make more if you like.

First, you must carve the olives in the middle, deep enough but not to hit the kernel. Then you put the olives in a big bowl or bucket covered with water. For ten days, you have to change the water daily. This process is necessary, for getting rid of the bitterness of the olives. You cannot cut an olive from a tree and eat it immediately, it’s to bitter for that.

Olives 3.JPG

After the ten days passed, the next step follows; you are going to need 1 kilo (2.2 lbs) of coarse salt,2lts (0,5 gallon) wine vinegar,4lts( 1 gallon approx.) water, one cup of oregano,500ml (0.52 quart)olive oil. For remembering the proportions better, the general rules are: for every kilo (2,2lbs) of olives, you need 100gr (3.5ounces) of salt. For every 2 parts of water you need 1 part of vinegar. Oregano is matter of taste you can add more or less, depends on your likes.

Olives 5.JPG

To continue with our project; you spill the water from the bowl and you put the olives in another clean and dry bowl(or bucket).You mix  the salt with half cup of the oregano and you are ready to salt the olives. The best way to do that is taking couple handfuls of olives, keep close a small bowl, put the olives there and put some good amount of mixed salt and oregano on them.

Then you can place them in the container you are going to store them. After this process you should have a container with olives. Add the water (4 liters) and the vinegar (2ltrs).Add the rest of the oregano (optional). Top up with the 500ml of olive oil. You must store the olives in a cool and dry place; keep them closed for 40 days.

After this period you can open the container and check their taste; they might need a little more salt or vinegar, so you have to add some. If their taste satisfies your preference you can put some in a small jar, for everyday use on salads, sauces or on their own. You can keep the rest, stored in the container or put them in smaller jars it’s up to you.

Olives 9.JPG

With significant benefits for health and longevity, olives and their products are valuable components of our daily diet.This recipe is easy to make and i think you should give it a try.

Special Note: Individuals that must follow a low sodium content (especially hypertensive) diet should be careful with the olives as they are high in sodium. Avoid pickled olives and check the labels before consumption.

Bicycle EDC Backpack

C33FBFFB-30AF-4F51-9597-9C325B404E1BCouple years ago i decided to buy a bicycle to move around town and also for keeping myself in a good shape.I had bought a very good mountain bicycle,because i thought that it would be perfect to go for overnights at the wood using my mountain bike.

Since i was going to use the bike for everyday transportation purposes,i need a backpack to keep all my essentials items in it. The backpack I use is a Maxpedition Falcon II backpack. The pack is made from 1050 cordura,which is tough and water resistant fabric.The pack has two main compartments which have mesh pockets at one side and two smaller compartment at the front.It also has a build in pouch for water bladder.Molle raws can be seen at the front and the sides of the backpack,useful to attach extra pouches if needed.


The pack contains items that will help me spend a night out at the trail if I have too or if I chose it.Also it keeps small tools that will help me fix a malfunction on the bicycle.

As you can see at the picture the items that I carry for an overnight trip are meant to cover the basic needs of fire, shelter,water ,first aid and signaling.For shelter I have a heavy duty space blanket,measured 5”x7”.I also have a small spool of bank like.A Bic lighter in the orange pouch and some extra tinders inside the small green box can start a fire in any conditions.Inside the metal survival tin,you can find an extra ferro rod ,tinder,small roll of duct tape,a whistle and extra batteries for my flashlight.I have a stainless steel bottle for my water and a titanium cup.One plastic zip lock bag with couple water purification tablets,a bandanna,a thermal wrap,pen and marker are couple extra items that can help me treat water,cook,stay warm and keep notes.I also have a basic first aid kit with me.


For signaling I have a whistle but also a hi visibility vest.This vest is useful if you are cycling at night and in case of emergency too.The cutting tools I use are a small folded knife from Opinel and a LTWK Maverick Scout .I also have a Leatherman Super Tool 300. I also have a small repairing kit for my bicycle, consists from a spare tube, couple patches for them and a set of levers.


With all these items , I can easily spent a night at the woods but also I have items that can be used if something bad happens and I found myself at the town.

How to Make a Walking Stick

3F3B9BDD-0E6A-40DB-818C-0B5FA6E7BFF8Walking stick is a great and useful tool that can help the outdoor enthusiasts in many ways.If you are walking,it can provide support when going uphill or as brake when going downhill.It can be used to check the ground,the mud, the depth of a creek or river if it’s long enough.It clears spider webs and thick brush and grass on the trail. Also,it can be used as defensive weapon;if someone wishes a spear head can easily attached to it.

To begin with your project,you have to find a stick long enough for your height.The stick should be around the height of your chest, although it is not wrong if you like a longer stick.Mine is at the same height of my shoulder,but as I mentioned it’s all matter of personal preference.As general rule try to bend your hand at 45 degrees and hold the stick.This will give you and idea on the perfect length.

The wood should be at least one inch thick,and not dead wood.You should let it dry for sometime,usually two weeks to one month.It depends of the thickness of the wood.The type of the wood should be hardwood and so it could be oak,hickory,cedar or ash or similar.My personal walking stick is made from olive wood.The stick should be as straight as possible but if it’s not too straight you can hang it and it will come straight to some point.

The next step is to remove the bark from the stick.You could do this before you let your stick dry.I tend to do this always.You can use a knife,preferably with scandi grind or any type that you like most.After that,you should use sandpaper to remove knots but also to make a smoother feeling while you are holding your stick.You can also round the edges of the stick.8773DACF-DE79-4409-89E5-997BCCDAD97F

I started with 100 grit sandpaper.This type is rough and will remove much material from the knots.I run it two times and gave more attention to the knot points.Next I used 200 grit sandpaper,again followed the same procedure as mentioned previously.For the last step I used 400 grit sandpaper.This type of sandpaper will give a much smoother feeling.

After you finished with the sanding,it’s time to stain the stick.Before the staining you can decorate it with pyrography designs.For my walking stick I used boiled linseed oil.You can use the same or tungsten oil,which is also safe If comes in contact with surfaces that you use to process food.I applied one coat of oil,let it dry and then I used a 400 grit sandpaper to remove excess stain.After that ,I applied another coat of linseed oil and after the drying I used again the 400 grit sandpaper.I repeated the process 3 -4 times totally.32FE8066-2484-4723-889E-BA01B26F220A

When you had completed the stain process,is time to apply a protective coat to your stick.I prefer a coat of bee wax,which will give a waterproof shield and also darkening the color of the stick;not much but it will look more rustic.

The final step is optional and is the making of the grip.To make a grip you can use paracord,leather stripes or piece or even bank line.Everything is matter of personal taste.I sewn a piece of leather to make my grip.FBA37536-516C-4B55-9F41-3163DFB8BB22

The process of making a walking stick is a great experience.It takes time,needs patience and some effort but the result will pay you back.It is a beautiful feeling to hold something that you have created and personalize on your own.I would suggest to everyone to make this journey,it worths a lot.






The Mountain Raider Knife

I always loved knives and as a kid I used to have a Swiss Army Knife folder in my pocket (i still carry one,accompanying with a fixed blade).During my service I had used many knives not only bayonets or tactical knives,but also large bowie knives and small auto folders.

I had made some knives drawings on paper but never have the chance or the ability to see one becoming true.I was fortunate enough,last year taking the opportunity to participate at the custom month event,through Pout House forum;I had sent a drawing and the guys at LTWK shop built it!


This design defines my view of the one tool option .Based on my experience and preferences I designed the knife to be the best companion not only in a survival situation but also for any outdoor activity,any day of the year.

The knife is made from 5/32” thick(about 4mm) A2 steel.I found that this particular thickness is appropriate for taking down limbs,making feather sticks and even skin and prepare small game,like rabbits.Another advantage is that the knife weights significant less than a thicker blade like 1/4” and it doesn’t sacrifice anything.It is light to carry it all day.You can work with it for long period of time,without getting fatigue.Also,if you are into self defense position a light and fast handling knife can do severe damage to your opponent.The A2 tool steel,is well known for its’ great abilities.It holds an edge for a long time,it’s easy to sharpen and it has better wear resistance than other carbon steel blades, such 1095,O1 and similar steels.You can force a patina to the knife for more protection,if you wish too.

The overall length of the knife is 10 inches.It has a 5.5 inches blade and 4.5 inches handles.


The handles are black bead blasted micarta with coyote liners.The bead blasted micarta offers non slipper protection in case your hands are wet or have blood on,while you were preparing game. Because micarta is a synthetic material it will not break or loose its shape over time,something that happens with wood handles.The liners provide a more beefy handle but also comfortable at the same time.You can control the knife very well in many different positions,even when wearing gloves.


The thickness of the knife helps while batoning and splitting wood to make feather sticks.It can make some very good feathers although can’t beat a scandi blade.It also has very good carving abilities,despite the fact that it has a flat grind.My first try stick was made using a knife with flat grind.Nothing is impossible….



While the flat grind of the knife has average performance at carving,it excels at processing game.It can skin an animal,slice the meat,prepare a fish and cut fine pieces of vegetables at your outdoor kitchen.It is also one of the easiest grinds that can be maintained at the field(the second is the scandi).A small flat stone and water can hone the grind perfectly.

The knife has a 90 degrees spine to strike your ferrocerium rod but also can be used to shave fine tinder from tree barks.The sheath is kydex with black leather backer.You can remove the leather backer and use tek-lok or MOLLE-loks.With these options,you can place the knife on your backpack or plate carrier/chest rig.The knife is secured tight in the sheath and there is a slide lock which adds an extra level of security to the sheath.

I am very pleased of the outcome of this knife.Not only my concept took “flesh and bones” but also the craftsmanship is amazing.The performance of the knife these few months that I have it on my possession is flawless!I am also in the happy position to see that this model will have a first production run from LT Wright Handcrafted Knives in limited numbers,available to Pout House. Visit the site of LTWK and join the greatest knife brotherhood ever!We will also find more cool knives too!

Based on my personal experiences I designed that knife to perform very well in any situation.If you are looking for an one tool option knife,do not overlook this blade.It has great capabilities and will not let you down.

‘Minute Man’ Load Carrying Harness: An old favorite with some modern twist Part #2

At the previous part,i had talked about the general idea behind this set-up and i had discussed about the belt,the Y suspenders and the padded sleeve.In this part i will explain the type of the pouches and some gear essentials that i carry on my harness.

The ammo pouches i choose to carry are two MOLLE M60 woodland camo pouches,made for Specialty Defense(SDS).These are military issued and are designed to hold 100rounds of linked ammo for the M60/M240 machine guns.The great thing with these pouches is that they can accept four M16 30 rounds magazines each or three M14/FAL 20 rounds magazines each.Also they can accept at least 25-30 shotgun rounds each,although the rounds will be noisy while you are moving;but in case you are wearing the harness and are on the move something went really bad…As you can see these pouches can cover the ammo needs for the rifles,in case a call to arms and for my shotgun in case of a SHTF situation.

Starting to discuss the pouches from left to right side of the belt; there is first a small OD green pouch that can accept  a pistol mag or a folding knife or a multitool or a flashlight or even a tourniquet.Personally,i keep a flashlight but if i had to join the military again i would put a pistol magazine there.Next,is the woodland camo ammo pouch and next is my trauma kit pouch.This pouch is a Tactical Tailor 1V utility pouch and it contains a pair of EMT shears,latex gloves,a 4” Israeli bandage,couple adhessive tapes and gauzes and antibiotics pills.(I also keep a packet of Celox but it got expired and i have to replace it)

Contents of the first aid kit

After the small first aid pouch is a Maxpedition small rollypolly OD green dump pouch.I can use this pouch to throw my empty mags in or to carry some extra shotgun shells.Right next to it is my Escape and Evade pouch;it’s an Eagle Industries MOLLE horizontal utility pouch.The folding dump pouch,the E&E pouch and the canteen pouch

This pouch contains my survival kit, 50ft of 550 paracord,a SOL emergency blanket,the belt extender,a small pouch with an extra metal clip and a camo paint for the face.In case of an emergency i can drop all the harness,take off that pouch and try to survive.The main goal is to never leave my harness no matter what…I can drop the backpack but never the harness and the long gun.

Contents of the E&E pouch

Next to the E&E pouch is a water canteen pouch in woodland camo,made from Safariland and is also military issued.I have a 1qt water canteen and a stainless steel cup at the main compartment and at the small pouch i keep CRKT Eat’n’ tool.After the canteen pouch is the second M60 pouch.

The right side;woodland camo ammo pouch and same camo canteen pouch
Water Canteen,Stainless Steel cup and Eat 'n' tool
The water canteen,the stainless cup and the Eat ‘n’ tool

When i am wearing the belt there are two small spaces left on each side,one before the first aid kit and the other between the canteen pouch and the ammo pouch.These are left on purpose in case i had to wear a drop leg holster for the pistol on the right side and place my knife at the left side or just to put my knife on my right side(my strong side).I have one last small pouch,also made from Eagle Industries, attached on the left shoulder strap and it carries a small SOG folding knife.This folding knife closed makes a great strap cutter.I used to carry the knife that way and when i was serving,especially during parachute jumps.The place there is very convinient and easily accessable in case something goes wrong…

SOG knife at the shoulder strap sheath
SOG folding knife and the knife sheath

When i was serving,i used to run the harness with the usual ALICE ammo pouches,a butt pack and a usual water canteen pouch.After i finished my military days,i upgraded the pouches with the new MOLLE style pouches,since MOLLE was starting to spread fast and i think that the harness still have many days to serve me well.I  want to get me a chest rig sometime but i will never leave this harness of duty!Don’t forget that many companies in our days offer MOLLE padded belts and suspenders,which is the upgrade of the old style LC belt and padded sleeve.

In the current time where MOLLE platforms have taken over the field,old trusty gear can be found for less money and with couple budget friendly upgrades you can have a very good system for your long gun and for any case.

‘Minute Man’ Load Carrying Harness-An old favorite with some modern twist PART #1

In a previous article i had reviewed my personal survival kit which is part of my battle gear.This means that the survival kit stays at the belt all the time,until the need arises and i have to use it.

When i was serving i was a big gear-holic!(still am,but since my budget are limited,i try not to spend much;that doesn’t mean though that i don’t try to learn what new gear is out and what can offer).I had three different types of load bearing equipment but all had the same configuration in mind,five different types of boots,couple knives,backpacks and other stuff….I used to own an Eagle Industries Air Rescue vest,an Arktis NL-rig and an ALICE belt,harness and few pouches.After i finished my service and due to the bad financial situation i am facing the last years,i had to sold most of my gear to cover basic needs.But,since i’m still considering as reservist(all Greek male population considered reserved military personel until the age of 65) i had to keep some things,in case of a draft and also because i am  preparing for  emergency situations.I had sold the two vests but i kept all the ALICE gear that i had and i also bought couple new pouches for my rig.I really like ALICE equipment(and the concept in general)for couple reasons;it’s very affordable,still can be found in large quantity,it has very good construction quality,it’s light and offers awesome ventilation,so it’s perfect for hot weather and long range patrols.During the hot summers,it was my preferable gear and for eight years had served me well.Drawbacks are the limitation of the things that you can load and that you cannot combined it with a large pack.The waist belt of the pack will interfere with the LC belt causing problem;you had to remove pouches from the belt which is no good,during an operation.If you choose a smaller pack,like a medium ALICE pack(without the frame,though) or a modern  3-day pack,you will not have any problems.

I had set up the configuration of the harness with two things in mind;that the gear should served military rifles and my shotgun.Legal firearms you can own here are shotguns and under specific circumstances handguns.Shotguns are wide spread,cheap and the process to get one is very simple .On the other handguns have  way more restrictions;to own one you must prove that your life is in danger(forget it,only rich people can go that way)and you need to carry one or be a member at a shooting club,no permit to carry though;the trick with the club is that you must participate in certain number of matches every year to keep the ownership license of your handgun,otherwise you will loose it.This is expensive and not many can afford the fees for the matches and the ammunition you had to provide during them.I used to be a member of an IPSC shooting club when my finacials were better but after i moved in the countryside and without a stable job,i had stopped that hobby for saving reasons.Luckily, i hadn’t prurchased a handgun by that time,i needed two more matches to be eligible to apply for a permittion to buy one handgun,otherwise it would have been confiscated now…The military rifles that are in service are the M16 and M4 family,FN FALs and HK G3.The first two(the M16 and the M4 are the standard issue since 2000,limited number of FALs are kept for the reservists) are used by my fellow Raiders,Marines and Spec-Ops Units and the third is the basic rifle of the rest armed forces.So,the gear should have the ability to accomodate magazines and ammunition for these type of guns and other essentials like first aid kit pouch,water canteen pouch and other items that i will explain them during this article series.

The belt i am using is a simple LC-2 belt with the black quick release button;i also have a belt extender in case i had to wear body armor so i can wear the harness over it.Adding the green padded sleeve from Eagle Industries make this belt very comfortable to wear,even for long period of time.The padded sleeve isn’t something new;English soldiers used to add such sleeves to their belts,so the system is already tested and proven.Keep in mind that many companies nowdays offer padded MOLLE  belts(aka war belts),even the issued US Army FLC vest comes with such a belt.It’s simple the modernization of this system.

The padded sleeve on the belt

The straps are ‘Y’ shaped,padded,similar to the issued ones;the particulars i use, are made by Eagle Industries and have some unique features that you will not find to the issued ones.First off,the straps are shorter than the surplus ones.Also,they have a sternum strap that helps when the harness is fully loaded,distribute the weight better and also makes the shoulders straps more stable;it works just like a sternum strap on a pack.There is a loop at the sternum strap for the hoose of the water bladder.The shoulder straps have two web loops to attach gear instead of the one that the issued straps have.Also at the end of the retantion straps there are retaining bands.

The Y suspenders;notice the two web loops on the shoulder strap and the sternum strap.

The common features between the issued and my suspenders are the retaining snap hooks at the end of the starps,the two wire loops at the shoulder straps(one on each side) and of course the adjustment procedure is the same with both systems.

Continued in PART #2….In the second part of the article,i will analyse the pouches and what i carry in them…

LTWK Genesis:report after three years of use

It’s been three years since i purchased my LTWK Genesis,the first model LT offered after the split of Blind Horse Knives.I managed to score one of the first run(the first run were 100 knives made and have PT stamped on them)with beautiful Desert Ironwood scales.It’s the only knife i have got that has such scales.For the last three years it’s always on my right side every time i am camping at the woods.I can’t say that i had abused it alot,but it has been put in use many times.

The knife is made from A2 steel,which holds the edge longer than O1 and resists corrosion much better.It’s my favorite steel by far!The thickness of the knife is 1/8”(3.175mm).The knife has a spear point and has a scandi grind.You can also find it with flat grind and convex grind and also in 3v and AEB-L steel now,but the first run came in scandi grind,high polished with zero degree edge.The handles is straight and are attached with two fish eye bolts and have a lanyard hole. The overall length of the knife is 9”(22.86cm).The blade length is 4.25”(10.795cm) which is a very common length for bushcraft type knives.The spine is sharpened,so you can through sparks from a ferro rod or scratching bark to collect tinder.Another great feauture is the thumb scallops that allows better control while performing some tasks,like carving.

Notice at the pictures the PT stamp and the LTWK stamp.Also,see how the light condition effects on the beautiful Desert Ironwood handles.

The high polished scandi grind is perfect at wood working.I have make feather sticks many times,made notches and i also had removed the bark from couple walking sticks that i had made these past years.The knife excels at these tasks.I had also used it at camp kitchen sometimes with no problems.The disadvantage of a scandi grind knife as kitchen knife is that you will get more chunky pieces of meat or vegetables when you cut them,but if you don’t care about that then there isn’t much of trouble!Personally it doesn’t bother me alot.

Pictures above show a feather stick and a bag of shavings.I use to keep some shavings for tinder(for the fireplace during winter).I don’t have the best technique on feather sticks but the Genesis helps make nice curls.

Now,i haven’t used the knife to skin game while hunting;i tend to carry a flat grind knife(LTWK Maverick Scout) at my hunting trips.Anyway,the Genesis performs excellent after three years.I am very pleased with it.Sharpening isn’t hard at all.The knife hardly shows signs of year;there are no rusty spots at all.I do however take care of it just like all my gear.The LTWK shop offers lifetime warranty and ‘spa’ treatment if you ever get your knife into much abuse.For more information on knife spa, you can contact the LTWK shop.

The Genesis is a true STAR and you can find out that yourself, if you purchase one and if you are watching History’s channel ALONE reality show;it’s the only knife that had been carried from participants in all three seasons.And that says a LOT!